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Report 3 (of 6): Green, Green
Wine - Portugal
Introduction
Increasing public concern over how
food is produced, in the wake of multiple food scares
and the unknown implications of new technologies such
as genetic modification, is changing consumers' attitude
to what they eat and drink. Coupled with higher awareness
of the damage that intensive agriculture can do the
environment, this means that there has been growing
demand for all types of organic products over the
last decade.
Portugal is famous for port and with
over 40 different wine regions is one of the world's
top 10 wine producers. Port wine gets its unique attributes
from the poor soils where it is produced and organic
farming enables farmers to derive the best from the
soil. A select number of producers are using organic
methods to produce top quality wine and protect the
environment. Organic farming in Portugal has steadily
increased in recent years and wine is the country's
second most important organic product after olive
oil.
What is Organic Wine?
Dr Jose from Quinta da Comenda
vineyard went into organic wine production because
he was concerned about the health impacts of pesticides.
Organic wine is made from grapes grown in organic
vineyards and processed using methods that minimise
chemical intervention.
An organic vineyard is one where grapes
are grown without chemical fertilisers, weed killers,
insecticides, or other synthetic chemicals. This prevents
damage to soil and ensures that no chemicals end up
in the wine as residue. Organic farmers aim to maintain
healthy, biologically active soil whose fertility
is provided by plants that fix nitrogen from the air.
In the vineyard it means planting cover crops between
the avenues of the vines instead of applying herbicide.
Naturally occurring plant or mineral extracts leave
no residue in the soil, and weeds are kept down with
the use of mechanical and hand hoes. Biodiversity
is promoted through the plants, which help regulate
the vineyard soil by attracting beneficial insects,
spiders and predatory mites.
In the cellar, 'organic' suggests
minimal processing and no use of chemical additives.
Minimising the use of sulphur dioxide as an antioxidant
is stringently observed. However, sulphites are needed
to preserve and stabilise wine in the bottle.
Small amounts of sulphite are found
naturally in wine and it is extremely difficult to
make a wine that will keep well without adding at
least some manufactured sulphites to supplement those
that are naturally present. This is particularly true
of white wines, which are fermented with no grape
skins. Red wines ferment with juice and skins together,
providing them not only with their colour but with
tannin, a natural preservative. [Source: The Organic
Wine Company]. Organic producers minimise the use
of sulphites, using only a third to half of quantities
used by conventional producers.
Financial Incentives
The European Union (EU) offers financial support
to organic farmers as an incentive for farmers
to convert to organic production and help the
sector grow. Under the current agri-environmental
scheme, the EU can provide grants for farmers
who decide to convert to organic farming. These
grants provide farmers with assistance during
the period of conversion to organic farming
(it usually takes three years to convert). During
this time farmers can experience a fall in income
if yields fall before produce can be sold at
a premium price because of its organic status.
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- Releasing pheromones - a scent
that confuses insects and stops them reproducing
- by means of special ties which are hung in the
vineyard every 20 yards or three rows. Made in Japan,
this pheromone tie lasts for three months. Ties
cost approximately US$10 per hectare (US$25 per
acre) per year.
- Using the ladybird, a natural insect
predator.
- Using natural elements such as
copper and calcium to treat fungus and insects.
How to Recognise Organic Wine
The standards for organic wine (regulating
both the crop and production methods) have subtle
variations from country to country. However, in all
cases, in order for a vineyard to be classified as
organic, the owner must be able to show which vineyard
the grapes came from, which officially recognised
body certified that vineyard as organic, and from
what date certified organic practices began.
In Portugal, vineyards are regulated
by EEC Regulation for Food and Farming Standards Reg.
2092/91. Current European Union legislation covers
the growing of grapes, but not the processing of wine
which may vary from country to country as certification
bodies set their own standards. The use of sulphites
in the processing means that it is common for wine
to be regarded not as organic but as wine produced
from organic grapes.
To promote and protect organic products,
the European Commission has drawn up inspection and
labelling standards. All producers claiming organic
status are registered with the relevant inspection
body in their country. These bodies are themselves
designated by and subject to regulation by authorities
whose task it is to verify their capability to administer
the schemes fairly and efficiently. Inspection covers
all stages in the production process, including storage,
processing and packing.
Quinta da Comenda was the first
producer and exporter of organic wines in Portugal.
The wine is certified by both Associação Portuguesa
de Agricultura Biológica (AGROBIO) and SATIVA,
two organisations with the authority to certify organic
products in Portugal.
The wine labels show the International Organic
Agriculture Symbol
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The company enters its wine into competitions
and promotes it through the national and international
media. This exposure is important in promoting the
fact that their wine is made from organic grapes.
The pesticides used in conventional
farming have been linked to cancer, contaminate water
and farm workers experience high levels of exposure
to them. The lack of natural plant life has left soil
lacking in minerals and nutrients and substantial
amounts of energy are used to produce synthetic fertilisers
to support the soil. The effects have been recognised
internationally. There is also concern about the potential
impact of genetically modified crops.
The demand for organic wine is therefore
likely to grow along with the market for other organic
produce. In the UK, for example, it is estimated that
three out of four households purchase some organic
products. There is a national government target for
30 per cent of all UK farmland to be organic or in
conversion by 2010, and 20 per cent of the food consumed
to be organic by 2010.
Once a vineyard is established, it
can be converted to organic methods and meet the ever-growing
demand from consumers for organic wine, which is better
for drinkers and better for the environment.
Acknowledgements
ITDG would like to thank Susana Vilhena
Beirao at Quinta da Comenda for providing information
to produce this case study.
Further Information
Hands On
Series 1: 100% Virgin Olive Oil - Spain
Series 2: From the Farm
European Commission
All
you need to know about organic farming in the EU
Email: agri-library@cec.eu.int
Access to information in multiple languages
http://europa.eu.int/comm/agriculture/qual/organic/
Quinta da Comenda exports organic wine all
over the world
Avenida da Boavista, 2.600
4100-119 Porto
Portugal
Tel: +351 22 617 98 89
Fax: +351 22 618 34 91 E-mail: quintadacomenda@sapo.pt
Website: http://www.quintadacomenda.com/
The Organic Wine Company based in the USA
has lots of information about methodology of organic
wine growing.
http://www.theorganicwinecompany.com/
1592 Union Street, 350
San Francisco, CA 94123
USA
Toll Free: 1-888-ECO-WINE or (888) 326-9463
Tel: +415-256-8888
Fax: +415-256-8883
E-mail: customerservice@theorganicwinecompany.com
Associação Portuguesa de Agricultura Biológica
(AGROBIO) Portuguese equivalent of the soil association
certifies organic wine in Portugal. It has also has
information and courses on how to make organic wine.
http://www.agrobio.pt/
Calçada da Tapada, 39 R/C - Dto
PT-1300-545 Lisboa
Portugal
Tel: +351 213 641 354
Fax: +351 213 623 585
Organic Europe Country report on organic farming
in Portugal
www.organic-europe.net
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